Knowledge & Heritage
The Art of the Lining
The complete guide to bespoke linings. Fabrics, colours, personalisation, construction types, and our lining suppliers including Holland & Sherry, Huddersfield Fine Worsteds Flash Collection, and Bernstein & Banleys.
The lining is the first thing you see when you open a jacket and the last detail that touches your skin when you put it on. It is the private face of a bespoke garment - the detail that nobody else sees but that you feel every time you dress. At Amieur & Zgaljardic, we source linings from Holland & Sherry, the Flash Collection from Huddersfield Fine Worsteds, and Bernstein & Banleys, among others. Our Cleveland Street showroom holds hundreds of lining options from classic Bemberg cupro to hand-printed silk, and every commission includes a dedicated lining consultation where we help you choose something that is as personal as the cloth on the outside.
Key Features
| Why the Lining Matters | A lining protects the internal construction, allows the jacket to slide on and off smoothly over a shirt, and absorbs moisture away from the cloth. In bespoke tailoring, it is also a canvas for personal expression. The lining is the one detail that is entirely yours - invisible to the world but present every time you reach inside your jacket. |
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| Bemberg Cupro | The industry standard for quality linings. Made from cotton linter (the short fibres around cottonseed), Bemberg is smooth, breathable, anti-static, and moisture-wicking. It drapes beautifully, feels cool against the skin, and is more durable than viscose. Our default lining for all bespoke commissions. |
| Silk Twill | The luxury choice. Natural sheen, soft hand, and superb drape. Silk linings are cooler in summer and warmer in winter than synthetic alternatives. Available in an extraordinary range of colours and prints. We source silk linings from Holland & Sherry and Bernstein & Banleys - from classic solids to bold paisleys and geometric prints. |
| Printed and Patterned Linings | Where personality meets craft. The Flash Collection from Huddersfield Fine Worsteds offers over 200 contemporary patterns - geometric, floral, abstract, and graphic designs in vivid colourways. Holland & Sherry supply classic paisleys, medallions, and traditional prints. Bernstein & Banleys bring theatrical and artistic patterns for clients who want something truly distinctive. |
| Viscose Satin | A practical choice with a luxurious feel. Smooth, lustrous, and available in every colour imaginable. Lighter than silk but with similar drape. A good option for clients who want impact on a considered budget, or for garments that will see heavy daily wear. |
| Full Lining | The jacket interior is completely lined from collar to hem. Provides the smoothest wearing experience, protects the internal canvas and pad-stitching, makes the jacket easier to put on and take off, and gives a clean internal finish. Standard for structured suits, overcoats, and formal garments. |
| Half Lining | The upper back, shoulders, and sleeves are lined; the lower back is left unlined with exposed seams finished by hand. Lighter and more breathable than a full lining. Shows the quality of internal construction - only appropriate when the workmanship is good enough to display. Our recommendation for summer suits and unstructured blazers. |
| Quarter Lining | Only the shoulders and upper yoke are lined. The rest of the jacket interior is unlined with hand-finished seams throughout. The lightest possible construction for maximum breathability. Reserved for summer linen jackets and the most casual blazers. Requires immaculate handwork since everything is visible. |
| Colour: Match | The lining matches the outer cloth in tone - navy suit with navy lining, charcoal with charcoal. Conservative, classic, and the choice for business suiting where discretion is the priority. The lining disappears when the jacket opens. |
| Colour: Complement | The lining harmonises with but differs from the outer cloth. Navy suit with burgundy or bottle green lining. Charcoal with plum or teal. The most popular choice at A&Z - it adds character without shouting. The colour relationship is deliberate, not random. |
| Colour: Contrast | The lining deliberately contrasts with the outer cloth for maximum impact. Charcoal suit with electric blue, midnight navy with burnt orange, black overcoat with scarlet. A bold statement of personal style. Best in solid colours rather than patterns, so the contrast itself is the feature. |
| Personalised Linings | Monogrammed initials embroidered on the inside breast panel. A wedding date stitched beneath the label. A personal message hidden inside the jacket. A family crest or company logo woven into the lining fabric. These details transform a garment from something you own into something that is unmistakably yours. All personalisation is discussed during your lining consultation. |
| Occasion Linings | Wedding commissions often feature the wedding date embroidered inside the groom and best man jackets. Matching linings across a wedding party create a hidden bond between the group. Corporate commissions can incorporate company colours or subtle branding. Sporting clients have commissioned linings in their club or team colours. |
| Seasonal Linings | Summer: half or quarter lining in lightweight Bemberg for maximum breathability. Autumn/winter: full lining in silk or heavier Bemberg for warmth and structure. Overcoats: quilted or padded linings for insulation, or silk for a smoother, lighter feel. The lining construction should match the season as carefully as the cloth itself. |
| Our Lining Suppliers | Holland & Sherry: classic solids, silk twills, and traditional printed patterns from one of Savile Row's most established cloth merchants. Huddersfield Fine Worsteds Flash Collection: over 200 contemporary patterns in vivid colourways - the most exciting printed lining range available. Bernstein & Banleys: artistic, theatrical, and distinctive patterns for clients who want something nobody else has. We also source specialist linings for overcoats, evening wear, and technical applications. |
When to Wear
Every bespoke garment includes a lining consultation. We recommend visiting the showroom to see and feel the full range - lining is a tactile choice that photographs and screens cannot fully communicate.
Our Offering
Common Questions
Is the lining included in the suit price?
Yes. Every bespoke commission includes a Bemberg cupro lining in your choice of colour at no additional cost. Upgrades to silk, printed, or designer linings carry a modest supplement.
Can I see the linings before I choose?
We strongly recommend it. Our showroom has the complete Holland & Sherry, Flash Collection, and Bernstein & Banleys ranges. Lining is a tactile choice - the weight, the drape, and the way it catches light all matter. We dedicate time in every fitting consultation to lining selection.
Should I choose a bold lining or a classic one?
It depends on the garment. Business suits benefit from understated complementary linings - they add character without distraction. Weekend blazers, evening jackets, and overcoats are where bold patterns and contrasts shine. For a first suit, we recommend a complementary solid. For a second or third commission, be adventurous.
Can I have the same lining across multiple garments?
Yes, and this is popular for wedding parties and coordinated wardrobes. We reserve enough cloth to line multiple jackets from the same bolt. For very large orders, we can commission exclusive colourways.
How long do linings last?
A Bemberg cupro lining will outlast the suit in normal wear. Silk linings are more delicate and may need replacement after 8-10 years of regular use. We offer relining as part of our care services - it gives an older garment a completely fresh interior.
Can you reline an existing jacket that was not made by A&Z?
Yes. We regularly reline jackets, overcoats, and waistcoats from other makers. It is one of the most transformative alterations we offer - a new lining makes a tired jacket feel new. We can match the original or upgrade to something more personal.
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