Knowledge & Heritage
The Overcoat
Warm, luxurious, and thoroughly practical. A beautifully tailored overcoat gives any wearer an air of stature and style - the hero of winter dressing. From the formal Chesterfield to the sporting covert coat, this guide covers every style we make.
A well-cut overcoat defines winter dressing. It should frame whatever lies beneath - suit, eveningwear, or knitwear - without overwhelming it. Length, cloth weight and shoulder expression must be judged carefully. An overcoat is outerwear, but it is also architecture.
History & Origins
The Crombie name became closely associated with smart British overcoats, to the point that it entered the Oxford English Dictionary as a term used to designate a type of overcoat made by J&J Crombie Ltd.
The Chesterfield, introduced around the 1840s by George Stanhope, 6th Earl of Chesterfield, was likely the first distinct overcoat style - a formal, dark, knee-length coat with a velvet collar. It gradually replaced the over-frock coat and remained associated with morning dress and white tie.
The covert coat has a separate and equally distinguished lineage. It originated in the hunting field in the mid-19th century, designed to be worn while riding to hounds or walking between drives during a day's shooting. The name comes from "covert" - a thicket or area of dense undergrowth where game shelters - and the coat was built to withstand being brushed through hedgerows and brambles. The cloth is covert twill - a tightly woven, smooth-faced tweed in fawn, olive, or brown with a characteristic flecked appearance created by twisted yarns of different colours. The signature detail is four (sometimes three or five) rows of stitching at the hem and cuffs, originally functional reinforcement against wear from stirrups and undergrowth, now a purely decorative hallmark. A velvet collar in dark green or brown completes the traditional specification. The covert coat is shorter than a Chesterfield (finishing at upper thigh rather than knee), fitted at the waist, and typically single-breasted with a fly front. It is one of the most versatile overcoats in the English tradition - equally at home over a suit in the City, at a country race meeting, or walking a dog across fields.
Overcoat Styles
| Chesterfield | Formal, knee-length, single or double-breasted with velvet collar. Clean lines without a waist seam. The classic city overcoat. Charcoal, navy, or black. |
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| Covert Coat | The quintessential English country overcoat. Short (upper thigh length), fitted waist, fly front, flap pockets, velvet collar. Signature rows of stitching at hem and cuffs. Made in covert twill - a smooth-faced, tightly woven cloth in fawn, olive, or brown. One of the most versatile coats we make: country shooting, race meetings, city commuting, weekend walking. Equally at home over tweed and over worsted. |
| Ulster | Long, heavy double-breasted coat with a cape or half-belt at back. Maximum warmth for the harshest winters. Named after the Irish province. |
| Raglan | Sleeves that extend to the collar rather than the shoulder, creating a softer, less structured silhouette. Named after Lord Raglan. Excellent for layering. |
| Crombie | A shorter, cleaner city coat - typically single-breasted, fly front, in heavy wool or cashmere. The name became generic for any well-made short overcoat. Less formal than the Chesterfield, more urban than the covert. |
Fabric Types
| Wool | The standard. Durable, warm, breathable. Worsted wool for a smoother finish; flannel for softness. |
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| Cashmere | The luxury option. Exceptionally soft and warm but lighter than wool. Requires careful handling. |
| Camel Hair | Naturally golden-brown. Lightweight for its warmth. Soft, with a distinctive texture. A polo coat classic. |
| Melton | Dense, heavily fulled wool with a smooth, felt-like surface. Extremely warm and wind-resistant. |
| Covert Twill | A firm, smooth-faced twill weave with a characteristic flecked surface. Originally woven for hunting, now the defining cloth of the covert coat. Medium weight, hardwearing, and subtly elegant. |
When to Wear
Chesterfield: over suits for business, formal evening events, weddings. Covert coat: country pursuits, race meetings, smart-casual town wear, weekend outerwear - the most versatile option. Ulster and Crombie: heavy winter city wear. Raglan: layering over suits when a softer shoulder is preferred. An overcoat should extend below the knee and fully cover whatever is worn beneath; a covert coat is the exception - its shorter length is part of its character.
Our Offering
Common Questions
How long should an overcoat be?
A traditional overcoat should finish at or just below the knee, fully covering whatever is worn beneath. A covert coat is the exception - it finishes at the upper thigh by design. The correct length depends on your height and the coat style.
What is a covert coat?
A short, fitted overcoat in covert twill cloth with a velvet collar and signature rows of stitching at the hem and cuffs. Originally a hunting coat, it is now one of the most versatile English overcoats - equally at home in the country and the city.
Can I wear an overcoat over a dinner suit?
Yes - a dark overcoat (navy or black Chesterfield) is the correct outerwear for black tie events. Avoid casual styles like the covert coat or raglan with evening dress.
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