Knowledge & Heritage
The Peacoat & Reefer Jacket
Naval heritage meets tailored elegance. The peacoat is one of menswear's most enduring garments - born at sea, perfected on land.
Naval in origin, disciplined in line. The peacoat and its officer counterpart, the reefer, are defined by proportion and purpose. Cut correctly, they provide structure without excess bulk and sit cleanly over tailoring or knitwear.
History & Origins
The peacoat originated with the Dutch navy in the early 18th century. The name likely derives from the Dutch word "pij" (pronounced "pee"), referring to a coarse, heavy blue wool cloth, making a "pijjekker" a jacket of thick fabric. An alternative theory links it to "pilot cloth" shortened to "P-cloth" and then "P-coat."
The British Royal Navy adopted the peacoat in the 1800s, using thick, tightly woven melton wool to protect sailors from biting cold and sea winds. The compact length allowed ease of movement aboard ships. The coat's double-breasted front with large buttons could be fastened all the way up for protection, and the broad lapels folded across the face against harsh weather.
The reefer jacket is the officer's version - bearing gold buttons and epaulettes rather than plain horn buttons. The name comes from the sailors ("reefers") who furled the sails. Legend has it that the captain of HMS Blazer had his sailors' reefer jackets fitted with gold buttons to impress Queen Victoria - the wellspring of the blazer. After WWII, surplus peacoats flooded civilian markets, adopted by beatniks, counterculture, and eventually the fashion mainstream.
Key Features
| Cut | Short (hip-length), fitted through the body, slightly flared at hips for movement |
|---|---|
| Fastening | Double-breasted, two rows of 3–4 large buttons |
| Lapels | Broad, sweeping notch lapels (peacoat); peaked lapels (reefer) |
| Fabric | Heavy melton wool (originally 30oz); modern versions in lighter weights |
| Pockets | Vertical slash or handwarmer pockets |
| Buttons | Black horn or plastic with anchor motif (peacoat); gold/brass (reefer) |
When to Wear
Casual and smart-casual settings, weekend wear, over knitwear and denim, city commuting. The peacoat is best avoided with very formal attire as its shorter length doesn't fully cover a suit jacket. The reefer, being slightly more refined, bridges smart-casual to semi-formal.
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