Knowledge & Heritage
The Trench Coat
From the battlefields of the First World War to the streets of every major city. The trench coat is one of the most iconic garments ever created.
Few garments combine function and refinement as effectively as the trench coat. Designed for protection, it has endured because of its clarity of line and disciplined detailing. It should move easily, belt naturally at the waist, and fall cleanly past the knee.
History & Origins
The trench coat's story begins with the quest for waterproof outerwear. In 1823, Charles Macintosh created rubberised cotton "macks" - effective but hot and odorous. In 1853, John Emary patented a more breathable waterproof wool and renamed his company Aquascutum (Latin: "water shield"). His coats were worn by officers in the Crimean War.
Burberry gabardine was associated with exploration and was notably used on Ernest Shackleton's 1914 Imperial Trans-Antarctic Expedition.
The First World War gave the garment its name. Officers needed lighter, more practical alternatives to heavy wool greatcoats for trench warfare. Features like epaulettes, D-rings for equipment, storm flaps, and throat latches were added. The term "trench coat" first appeared in print in 1916. After the war, officers continued wearing them at home, establishing the coat as a symbol of authority and sophistication - reinforced by Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca and Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany's.
Key Features
| Fabric | Gabardine (traditional) or cotton twill. Waterproof and breathable. |
|---|---|
| Fastening | Double-breasted with 10 front buttons; self-belt at waist |
| Length | Knee-length (traditional); variations above and below |
| Details | Storm flap, epaulettes, D-rings, cuff straps with buckles, rear cape/vent |
| Colour | Khaki/stone (traditional); navy, black, and other colours now common |
When to Wear
The ultimate transitional coat - autumn/spring, rainy weather, over suits for business, smart-casual weekend wear. Not primarily a cold-weather coat (use an overcoat for winter). The trench projects authority and sophistication in virtually any setting.
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Common Questions
Is a trench coat waterproof?
Traditional gabardine trench coats are water-resistant rather than fully waterproof. The tightly woven gabardine repels light rain effectively. For heavy rain, a waxed cotton or treated fabric would be more appropriate, but the trench handles London weather well.
What length should a trench coat be?
A classic trench coat finishes at or just below the knee. Shorter versions exist but lose the distinctive silhouette. The belt should sit at your natural waist and the shoulders should follow your shoulder line without extending beyond it.
Can I wear a trench coat over a suit?
Yes - this is one of the trench coat's primary functions. It should be cut generously enough to accommodate a jacket underneath without pulling across the chest or shoulders.
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